I haven't seen any posts in ths area for quite some time so I hope no one will mind my notes on a recent tasting.
I had the opportunity recently to taste a few of the many good bottles from the 80's and the results were delicious. I tasted an 83 Boyd Cantenac and Prieure Lichine both from Margaux, an 82 Lanessan from the haut medoc and finally an 85 Lynch Bages which is a Pauillac. The bottles had been stored reasonably well and the fills were very good, although the two Margaux had corks which were almost wet to the top and crumbled. Having just found a bottle from 1998 which was leaking in a case of my own, there can be no better advice than to constantly monitor your wines, especially if they are still in a wooden case.
While 82 Bordeaux put Robert Parker on the map (he declared it the wine of the century) and subsequently led the way to his favorable word on any review raising the price of wine, it was fun looking back and seeing what these were all about. Though fortuitously donated by another cellar, I was looking forward to tasting mature wines I had never been able to experience when they were young. Each was carefully standing upright for 4 days and then decanted carefully one hour before serving.
The Lanessan was exactly what old Bordeaux should be like, glorious and lovely and still powerful in all senses of the word. It tasted and smelled like cassis and allspice with a surprising amount of balance between the fruit, acid and tannin. One taster said that this was exactly what old Bordeaux should taste like and the rest of us agreed. The finish was elegant and it was indeed a great pleasure to drink. I would rate it perhaps 94 points out of a hundred, losing a bit because of a slight lack of finesse so notable in the greater chateaux..
The two Margaux were both soft, the Boyd Cantenac being remarkably brown and clearly on its descent. Still it had lovely flavors of blackberry and one person described violets in the nose. Although lacking in tannins and well rounded, it reminded us of rich juicy plums in a certain regard. Someone else described the flavors as jammy, but there was a hint of tanned leather on the palate too. The finish was much better than average and I would rate this wine about 91 points.
The Prieure Lichine, a winery I have never found to my taste, was much more focused with a beautiful display of ripe fruit and structure. Although normally somewhat austere and thin, this vintahge carried a velvet punch, displaying its many different flavor layers and an elegant finish. Compared to the other margaux, this wine was in a sharp focus, clearly having layers of interest cebntering around again the blackberry aromas with hints of mint and perhaps eucalyptus. I would rate this a 92 out of 100.
The Lynch Bages 85 was expectedly soft and I was afraid that it might be fading or over the hill because of reading previous tasting notes. Still it had a fabulous nose of cedar and cassis with coffee overtones and a bit of black pepper at the top. The flavors were the favorite of the group, probably because of the lack of tannins. however the lack of tannins made me wonder how it had kept together this long, at least in a reasonably well balanced state. Still this wine was far younger tasting than the Boyd Cantenac and probably good for another 5 years at very least.Its pedigree showed the excellence of the wine and I would rate this as possibly 94-95 points, deducting because of its vintage. Still I have seldom drunk wine as good as this.
If you get a chance to have an old bottle of Bordeaux, you have to be careful where it comes from. Still if you are invited to taste someone else's wine, don't hesitate. It's an eye opening experience to taste what all the fuss about maturity means. It's also nice to know that something really does improve with some age.
Fly London
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